Sunday Brunch: Scotch Eggs

Recipe: Scotch Eggs With A Perfect Runny Yolk, by Matt Clifton at Nerds With Knives

Listen, I know it's a very basic-queer-millennial thing to say, but I love brunch. Mainly because I see no logical reason I should be able to indulge my love of breakfast foods only if I wake up early. Brunch encourages you to let go of expectations of what is or is not morning food, and relax your thinking around when you're allowed to eat. And I'm here for it.

Brunch, for me, is best when it's a long, relaxed, casual affair. The trendy restaurants, long lines, hybrid baked goods and small, Instagrammable portions are all well and good on occasion, but when we're *really* having brunch, give me something hearty and filling and indulgent. A savory classic like an omelet, with a short-stack of pancakes starter and a cinnamon-roll for afters. Hang on. Now I need a minute.

Anyway, obviously it's been a while since I've tucked into a gorgeous restaurant brunch. But, I've had a standing virtual brunch with some close friends for most of the last year and while it's definitely no substitute for the real thing, it's been nice to have a regular commitment to see and talk to other humans and a regular reason (not that you need one) to roll up my sleeves and treat myself to my favorite foods once a week. In the beginning of these pandemic brunches I did my best to show off every weekend, with dishes like Eggs Benedict and Croque Madame. Lately, however, I've been focusing on the company and not so much on the culinary theatrics, keeping it to basics like breakfast tacos and breakfast sandwiches. But the latest virtual brunch was Easter virtual brunch, and that felt like a good enough excuse to get back to some kitchen tricks.

Because I love a theme, I started searching my brain for what felt like an "appropriate," indulgent and sufficiently-extra Easter brunch for one. My first-proteins were ham and lamb - typical Easter fare. I did some research, but nothing was calling my name. But I was missing a far more obvious Easter connection. The egg.

I have long been fascinated by the idea of a Scotch egg. They are a breakfast in a bite - soft boiled egg, encased in sausage, breaded and deep fried. Sign me up. But for all their apparent deliciousness, I had never actually eaten or attempted to make them. I knew this was my moment.

I'll say right here, that I definitely overcooked my eggs. They did not have the soft, gooey, sunny center I wanted. But did I still eat them? You betcha. Perfect is the enemy of the good, and perfect is boring. And perfect isn't me.

Despite being overcooked, the Scotch eggs were delicious and exactly the layered, salty, crunchy, rich bites of awesome I was hoping they'd be.

And, I think I know what I did wrong.

Preparation Notes

I'm pretty sure the first step is where I went wrong. I trusted the recipe and not my instincts. The recipe calls for a slightly different method of boiling eggs than I normally do, and I should have gone with my way. The recipe calls for starting eggs in cold water, bring to boil over medium and then simmering for 4 minutes. I'd suggest:

- Start your eggs in cold water

- Bring to a boil quickly over high heat

- Once boiling, turn off the heat, cover with a lid, let the eggs sit in the hot water for 4 minutes

- Immediately cool eggs in an ice bath.

My theory is that the longer time in the water caused by a slow boil, and the simmering rather than just cooking in carryover heat contributed to the overdoneness.

One thing I really appreciate about this recipe is the combination of breakfast sausage and regular old ground pork - to temper the fattiness, which gives the meat layer a bit more heft and substance. The meat layer is also your best place to add your flavorings of choice to the eggs. I used rosemary, thyme and parsley and the called-for dijon and nutmeg. Don't be shy with your salt and pepper here, and add some heat in the form of cayenne pepper or smoke from paprika here if you want, too. Hot sauce, or a spicier mustard might be a kicker too. Or cheese, I wish I had somehow added cheese.

The dredging and frying process is pretty standard, but make sure you repeat the process as the recipe recommends. Two layers of breadcrumbs is better than one in pretty much any situation I can think of. Watch the temperature of your frying oil closely, too. That may have also contributed to my overcooked egg situation.

This recipe is a bit fiddly, sure. Wrapping eggs in sausage isn't the simplest of maneuvers. But it absolutely pays off, and packs a bit of an impressive punch, if you're showing off. Even just virtually.

I served mine with a very boring, not at all very good romaine salad, because I didn't have anything else around. And, to be honest, I stole the romaine from the stash I keep for my pet bunny. But a properly dressed, arugula or mixed green salad with a light vinaigrette an some shaved parmesan would be a perfect complement. And maybe some cheese sauce. Because cheese.

Rating: 4.8/5

Will I Make It Again: Abso-lutely.